Puno
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The floating islands of Uros
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Except for lake-fishing, the career paths that lie open to the people of Uros are limited on the islands. They could go ashore, but many inevitably find that when working onshore, it is easier to live onshore – and leave the islands. Once or twice a day, the peace of the lake is broken by…

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Sunrise over Lake Titicaca
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My mid-life crisis had primarily been a peaceful experience; there was no motorbike in my garage. Notwithstanding, some profound change had come over me. I had started to consider security when choosing travel destinations. Until recently, I had felt that a high crime-rate added to the ‘exoticism’ of a place. This time, I had not…

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Towards Journey’s End
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Ten and a half hours on a train IS ten and a half hours on a train, no matter how nice that train may be. As we entered into the final hour of our journey, daylight was gradually giving way to dusk. The bar was closed, the tabs had been paid, the shock of the…

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Of deep fried rodents and raw eggs
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My journey across the Peruvian altiplano on the Titicaca train continued. No trip to Peru, I was told, would be complete without experiencing the national dish of Cuy – Guinea Pig. Peruvians preemptively go to great lengths to assure people that the Cuy is NOT a rat. Deliberately misquoting Shakespeare, I venture to say ‘the…

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A train to the top of Peru
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About midway between Cusco and Puno, the Titicaca train makes a stop at La Raya, the highest point on the route at 4 313 m.a.s.l. The scenery was beautiful. It was now as Peruvian as scenery could be. It was Peru, as it is sold by travel magazines. The conifers from the lower altitudes had…
